Bartending Techniques

Using Champagne in Cocktails

Greg Horton, ReserveBar Spirits Contributor

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At the risk of oversimplifying, two schools of thought exist vis-a-vis Champagne cocktails. Members of the first school won’t be reading this with a smile for reasons best summed up by David Embury, the author of “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks,” as reported in “Difford’s Guide.”

“From every point of view, other than cost, this cocktail is a decidedly inferior drink, and no true Champagne lover would ever commit the sacrilege of polluting a real vintage Champagne by dunking even plain sugar – much less bitters – in it.”

Embury is writing of the classic Champagne cocktail, a drink whose origins date back to the Civil War era, but his general sentiments are shared by many oenophiles. Put simply, don’t adulterate good wine. Good is a relative term here, but it’s easy to agree with Embury if bottles like Pol Roger, Ruinart, and Perrier-Jouet are in view. At lower price points, though, a good domestic sparkling wine, Prosecco, Cava, and Champagne can make an excellent addition to certain cocktails.

Champagne should never be viewed as a mixer per se, and bourbon drinkers would say that of high-quality whiskey, too. Still, at a certain point on a price/quality axis, it does make better sense to consider it as such, just as at a certain point bourbon makes an excellent Old Fashioned.

TAKING LESSONS FROM THE FRENCH 75

G.H. Mumm Cocktail

The second school of thought, though, sees nothing wrong with adulterating wine. The only evidence we need for the ascendance of this preference is the runaway popularity of the French 75, a cocktail that is essentially a riff on a Tom Collins. The French 75 also serves to highlight two of the fraught decisions with sparkling cocktails: what glassware do you choose, and which garnish?

“I really hate the way a French 75 is presented,” says Jeffrey Cole, the distiller for Wanderfolk Spirits, and a former bartender-bar manager with decades of experience in high-end bars. “First there’s the flute, which someone is going to knock over, and then there’s the lemon peel, floating around in my glass like a dead bug. Put it in a Collins glass where it belongs, and then attach the garnish to the side of the glass.”

In less curmudgeonly terms, glassware does make a huge difference in presentation and experience, so it’s a good place to start on best practices. Cole is correct that the flute is the easiest piece of stemware to knock over, and it does very little for aromatics. Other than its festive appearance, the flute contributes nothing of note to the cocktail, and all Champagne cocktails work better in a coupe (served up) or Collins glass (on the rocks).

Also important is temperature, and since Champagne is served cold, any major component – Campari, gin, juice – should also be cold to avoid the heat bomb effect. Sparkling wines bubble more when cold, too, so temperature also affects the visual experience of the cocktail. A popular riff on the classic Champagne cocktail uses Cognac. Nothing will warm up a cold drink faster than room temperature spirits or fortified wines, neither of which are typically chilled. An easy way to fix this problem is to stir or shake the ingredients over ice, which serves to chill and elongate the drink, allowing for a more balanced drink.

FINDING THE PERFECT BALANCE

As for what does not work with sparkling wine, Cole said to consider the Seelbach Cocktail, a signature sparkling wine drink made famous at the Louisville hotel of the same name. “It’s basically a what not to do for Champagne cocktails,” he said. “It’s seven dashes of Ango and seven of Peychaud’s. Why even use sparkling wine at that point? You won’t be able to taste anything but bitters and whiskey.”

Translating again, balance is important, and fizzy wines are easy to pummel into insignificance. Yes, you want the bubbles for effervescence, but why use a component if you can’t taste it as well? Might as well use soda. A couple of dashes of bitters are more than enough for a sparkling cocktail.

Pouring Champagne from a Bottle

What kind of bubbles should you use? Styles do matter. With Champagne, you’ll get tighter bubbles, higher acidity, and, if you’re not careful, too many sulfites. Pick a bottle that doesn’t smell sulfurous when opened. Proseccos like Della Vite and La Marca are good for cocktails because they add a hint of sweetness and citrus. Cava, on the other hand, is the perfect stand-in for Champagne, especially if you use something like Campo Viejo Cava Brut – bone dry with a clean finish. American sparkling can run the spectrum, but for Methode Champenois, it’s hard to beat J Vineyards California Cuvée, a sparkling from California that’s a dead ringer for its French cousin.

Finally, the garnish. Cole recommends edible flowers instead of floating fruit rinds. The peel is best expressed and tossed if you use a flute, as pretty much anything gets in the way when drinking from this style of glass. Pairing for complement – orange peel with Aperol, lemon with Prosecco, etc. – makes for the best balance but aromatic bitters can also add lovely spice notes that wouldn’t be there otherwise.

Here are two recipes to get you started:

HENDRICK’S CRANBERRY FIZZ

  • 1oz Hendrick's Gin
  • 2oz Cranberry Juice
  • 1oz Sparkling Wine
  • Rosemary Sprigs and Cranberries (Garnish)

In a highball glass, mix Hendrick's Gin, cranberry juice, and sparkling wine. Garnish with rosemary and cranberries and enjoy!


G.H. MUMM’S SPREZZATURA

Measure all ingredients except G.H. Mumm into a shaking tin. Add ice and shake briefly and vigorously. Strain into a cold footed-pilsner glass with Kold Draft ice. Top with G.H. Mumm and garnish with a mint bouquet.

Inspired to start mixing with Champagne? Explore our full listing of champagne cocktails in the Cocktail Lounge. If you are looking to expand your champagne experience, also take a look at Cheurlin, HRLM, and Lallier to help get you started.

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