Spirits Explained

Understanding Sparkling Wine

Holly Shaw, DipWSET, ReserveBar Wine Contributor

‘Tis the season to celebrate, and celebrations call for bubbles! Of course, sparkling wine is meant to be enjoyed year-round, but at this time of year in particular, I find myself reveling in the sound of the popped cork, my special coupe glasses, and the fizzy feel of a good sparkling wine more often. Sparkling wine simply (or not so simply) upgrades something that is special already. But how do those bubbles get in that bottle? It’s a little more intense than simply adding carbonation to soda drinks. For even the casual wine drinker, the process is very interesting, and can be especially useful as a fun holiday party conversation topic.

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Sparkling Wine 101: A Guide to Understanding Your Sparkle

What is considered a sparkling wine? It is a carbonated wine that comes in white and red varieties and even bubbly rosé. It is known by several names, including Champagne, Cava, and Prosecco, and understanding the difference can be narrowed down to just a little knowledge about regulations, methods, regions and grape varietals.

What makes sparkling wine fizzy?

There are two main methods that create sparkling wines, which result in different levels of carbonation and resulting styles. Those are the Traditional Method (Champagne, Cava) and Tank Method (Prosecco). The other methods are the transfer method, ancestral method, and carbonation.

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Traditional Method (Methode Champenoise)

This is the most common and straightforward method for carbonating wine. The grapes go through the process of being pressed to create a base wine. The wine is then bottled, an infusion of sugar and yeast is added, and then the wine undergoes a second fermentation inside the bottle. This second fermentation adds more alcohol, and creates Co2, trapping it in the bottle and carbonating the wine. After a period of time, the temporary cork is removed, the dosage is added (a mixture of sugar and wine), and the bottles are corked again for sale. This is the method that has been used for years for the creation of Champagne.

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Tank Method

The tank method became popular because it is a less expensive way to create sparkling wine. Instead of bottling the wine for the second fermentation, a large tank is utilized. The Co2 released from the fermentation causes the tank to pressurize. The wine is then bottled and corked. Popular wines made in the tank method are Prosecco and Lambrusco. This process creates a sparkling wine with more fresh fruit aromas and is less expensive and faster to produce. However, this process will lack the autolytic aromas (think bread, biscuits, or brioche) and creamy mouthfeel that Champagne is known for.

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Other Methods

While the previous two methods are the most common, winemakers have developed other unique ways of infusing bubbles into bottles. The transfer method is common for large-size bottles (Jeroboam) or smaller split bottles. This is similar to traditional because the wine is fermented in a bottle but not the bottle in which it is sold. The ancestral method pre-dates the traditional method and involves no second fermentation and some very cold temperatures. There are a few producers who use this method, but it is mainly found in southern France and the Loire Valley. The cheapest method to create fizz in a bottle is called the carbonation method, which is simply made by injecting carbon dioxide into the wine.

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While there are many varieties of sparkling wine produced around the world, there are three main expressions that come up the most when picking out bubbles: Champagne, Cava, and Prosecco.

But, before we dive into these specific varieties, don’t forget about sparkling wines around the globe that are worth sipping. America, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Chile, and Argentina all have astounding players in the sparkling wine game. In fact, some serious producers in California can rival Champagne and are known to create confusion for us experts on a blind tasting.

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Champagne

The rolling hills and chalky soils of the Northern French countryside create perfection in a bottle. Champagne is a prestigious wine with a long history of famous houses such as Krug, Bollinger, Roederer, Moët and Clicquot. This special and elegant example of sparkling wine is an appellation, meaning that there are legal requirements that must be met for the bubbles to be called Champagne. The grapes must come from the Champagne region of France.

But it’s not just about the region; the strict requirements are given for just about every process that happens, from handpicking to the finished product and the grape varietals used (pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay). The méthode traditionnelle (aka méthode Classique or traditional method) must be used. The resulting flavor of the traditional method is a wine with autolytic aromas as a byproduct of the yeast left in the bottle (aka ‘lees’). The lees create a creamy texture and are an important part of the Champagne process.

Champagne is not just a geographical location producing identical products. What makes it so special is that Champagne houses have spent years and years developing a “house style” to create consistency in the bottle and a “taste” they are known for. The styles vary from floral and fresh fruit aromas to a more full-bodied biscuity flavor. For example, Ruinart tends to be rich and bready, while Pol Roger is more aromatic and floral.

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Cava

Cava is one of my favorite go-to bubbles. This is a popular Spanish sparkling wine that typically comes at a lower price compared to Champagne, made in the same method but with different grapes. The main grapes are Macabeu, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, which lend different flavor profiles that add to the overall style. Cava DO is the official classification that can be produced anywhere in Spain, although 98% of the production happens in Catalonia.

All sparkling wine will range in sweetness depending on the dosage used. Cava tends to be a little more savory with hints of pear and apple, making it less fruity than Prosecco. In Cava, the driest example is Brut Nature, with extra brut following and then brut, and the sweetest expression being semi seco. Cava tends to produce wines that are fresh and easy to drink. If you want to try a glass with more complexity, look for a more aged example such as reserva or gran reserva.

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Prosecco

Italy’s very own sparkling wine from the North-East corner. Prosecco’s popularity comes from the fresh, fruity flavors that make for easy sipping in cocktails or on its own. Prosecco is made in the tank method (aka Italian method, Martinotti method or Charmat method) from the Glera grape, a native Italian varietal that must make up 85% of the wine.

Prosecco DOC and DOCG can be found on the label, which is essentially a legal category created to indicate higher quality. DOC is more or less a superior wine that can be sourced from the provinces of Treviso (Veneto) and Trieste (Friuli-Venezia Giulia). Prosecco DOCG is meant to indicate the highest quality of wine limited to 15 communes between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene within the province of Veneto. On the label, Spumante means full sparkling and Frizzante indicates semi-sparkling.

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A Few Labeling Terms

The last piece of the puzzle is how to figure some basic terms on a label. Here is your vocabulary cheat sheet:

Extra-Brut: The driest style. There will be a complete absence of sweetness in the wine.
Brut: This is the most popular style of sparkling wine. This is a dry sparkling wine, and most Champagne will be labeled as brut.
Extra-Dry: This is dry but will be sweeter than Brut or extra-brut. Prosecco tends to be produced in this style.
Demi-Sec: This is sweet. If you are looking for a sweet glass of bubbly — this is it. This style of wine is a perfect pairing with dessert.
Blanc de Blancs: The meaning is “white of whites.” These are wines made from white grapes. In Champagne, this would be 100% Chardonnay.
Blanc de Noirs: The meaning “White from Black.” You guessed it- this is a wine made exclusively from red grapes.

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In Closing

Armed with just a bit of knowledge, you can make informed decisions about which sparkling wines to stock up on or bring to the party this season. Now pop a cork and raise a glass to your new education in the world of bubbles — every day is worth a celebration! I wish you a happy, healthy season full of celebrations with the ones you love. Cheers!

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